Grand Slam

No decent internet!

We are struggling with no decent internet connection.Hopefully back to normal tomorrow.

Wednesday 13th August, Ribeira

After a really pleasant time in Vilagarcia, we set off to head southwards to the Ria de Pontevedra. Plan A was to try an anchorage on the south side of Isla de Arosa (only 5 miles) and then south into the next Ria on Thursday. Plan B (if that was not any good) was to aim for San Vicente, just round the bottom headland from the Ria and Plan C was the big drawing pin in the chart table.

We left around noon-ish and got to Ensenada sur de San Xulian (on the south side of ......) after a gentle drift and threading ourselves through the viveros. Unfortunately what looked like a good anchorage in the Pilot Book was a bit industrial - not quite as bad as Grangemouth - but not what we wanted. So onto plan B.

We headed back out through the viveros and south towards the bottom of the Ria. The weather forecast was 15knts northerly but with a 4m swell outside the Ria (compared with the usual 2m). This is the after effect of one of the big depressions hitting Biscay (and you lot up there!!). Anyway, as a result I feared that San Vicente would be too lumpy to anchor so onto plan C. First attempt with the drawing pin put us half way to the Azores (not where we wanted to go) and the 2nd and 3rd not really that much better (must use a more detail chart for this). With the wind northerly, our options were more limited so plan Z was put into practice and we ended up in Ribeira (still in the Ria de Arosa) after a nice pleasant afternoon sail. There is a nice beach to anchor off just to the north of the harbour area - which does have a fairly sizable marina as well as a busy fishing port.

(the view to the north)

We dropped anchor in 15-20knts of wind in 6m of water and settled down to wait for the wind to go down so we could take the dinghy ashore. There were another 4 boats in the anchorage (one French, one Dutch, one Spanish and one British). We cooked and ate on the boat and gave up the idea of going ashore as the wind continued to howl. The holding was reported to be very good (sand) and it turned out it was. The wind finally died around 11pm so it was a relative quite night apart from the swell from outside the Ria making it a bit lumpy and then the constant fishing boat traffic making it very lumpy every half hour.

(the view to the south)

The weather on Wednesday was good blue skies but the wind was cold, I guess as a result of the cool weather earlier in the week. Thursday dawned in a similar way with it quite cold. We upped anchor around 11 ish and had to put a fleece on (still in shorts though!) for the first time sailing for a while. The anchor came up no problem with little weed.

While I was pulling up the anchor, we were dive bombed by one of those big yellow planes that swoop down to pick up water from the sea to drop on forest fires, or just drop it back in the sea on whoever is below when they are practicing. I guess it was around half a mile away. 3 minutes later is was back, a few hundred yards away. I trust they have good radar. By the time I had run for the camera it had disappeared. You will have to wait for the next blog entry to see where we ended up next.

Tuesday 12th August, a cool Vilagarcia

Monday ended a bit of a wash out with strong winds and horizontal rain (so made us feel quite at home). It does raise the question of what one wears in these "hot" climates when it gets cold. All my "rain type" jackets seem to have fleece linings - I guess that is the norm for sailing on the Forth. That makes it a bit warm when worn with wind and rain but a temperature of 18-20C. Looks like I need to treat myself to a new Henri Lloyd jacket!! Well Pam got a new pair of Birkenstocks so she can't complain. It is interesting that up in Port Edgar, half of the chandlers in the marina (the Bonsun's Locker for those in the know) is taken over by displays of clothing - especially wet weather gear. Here in Vilagarcia the chandlers have none. Zero. Zip. Nada ( I think that is Spanish)!

We had a good look around the chandlers on site today. Interesting that there is a chandlers on site as this is the first marina since Dunstaffnage (in Oban) where there is one. Ok, there is a chandlers in Dun Laoghaire within a few hundred yards of the marina gate - but you know what I mean. We have got so used to having one on the doorstep in Port Edgar that it becomes and expectation. The upside of there not being any is the rate of money moving out of the credit card account is much reduced. We bought some rope for tying up the dinghy and got a catalogue. Boy the prices are expensive for boaty stuff here. Probably ok if the Euro/Pound exchange rate was 1.5:1 - but it isn't. We read Gordon and Anne's (Equinox) blog site today and noticed they were complaining about prices in Ireland. Well it's a lot cheaper here but buy your boaty stuff in the UK before you leave.

So it's been another quiet day. We walked around the street market selling all sorts of very cheap clothing. There were probably enough shoes to supply a 3rd world country although I fear not everyone would get a matching pair. Pam wasn't up for negotiating for some clothing which was probably going for less than 5 Euros so we went for a coffee instead.

This is our last night in Vilagarcia as we are moving south tomorrow towards the next Ria, the Ria de Pontevedra (or some such spelling - it is late and the Estrella is the limiting factor in applying the spell checker). I think we have worked out that Estrella means "Star". So it's Star beer we have been drinking for the last 3 weeks! When we lived in Dinas Powis, we used to drink in the Star - there's a tenuous connection. Anyway, where was I ..... oh yes....Vilagarcia has been a great place to act as a base to see around this area. The marina has been well worth the visit and the staff wonderful. The town is a few minutes walk away with loads of bars and restaurants - all in all a nice place to be at this time of year. It is a shame the fiesta is not until the end of the week as it would have been nice to be around but we have to get further south to see the other two Rias. Kilmore Quay is still winning the "best marina in the world competition" but only on the craic component - it may have been just as good here but we just couldn't understand it! Vilagarcia - you were close! You may have just edged out Portosin.......no I am not starting a "best in Spain....."

By the way, if anyone is coming this way, make sure you get one of the "passports". This covers about half a dozen of the marinas in the area and gives 10% discount. It costs 5 Euros so pays for itself in 2 days. La Coruna is one of the marina covered but of course they don't tell you that there. The cost here is just over 22 Euros per night (12m) with the discount so not bad and half of what we were charged in Dublin.

So let's hope for a bit warmer weather tomorrow. Today has been partly cloudy, no rain, but more like Scottish temperatures so the fleeces have always been close to hand. It's been windy as well but the forecast tomorrow is more sun, higher temps and less wind so a good day for a drift down the Ria.

Where are we going? I haven't a clue. 3 targets are Isla de Arosa, San Vicente or Isla de Ons. A lot depends on - what time we get up, what direction is the wind from and whether there is enough Estrella in the fridge to determine if a shore visit is needed (we can't go ashore at Isla de Ons). Hard choices! What's for certain is there should be plenty of time for a bit of fishing. Hope you aren't all working too hard at home. Back with more soon.

Monday 11th August, Vilagarica

Sunday was a day spent sorting stuff out on the boat or to be more precise - cleaning it! There was still lots of grime on the grp from our travels down here so it needed a wash, an application of rubbing compound followed by a good coat of polish. We managed the starboard side before the heat beat us. We'll have a go at the port side maybe tomorrow. We also did half a dozen little things that I had been putting off like tightening the nuts on the galley taps and defrosting the fridge.

After our exertions we headed up the sailing club for a drink. It was late Sunday afternoon and quite a bit of activity in the marina but hardly any body in the club. Below is the view from the outside. Almost like PEYC but much warmer.

This has been the cheapest place for a drink with beer (Estrella of course) and a glass of wine for 3 Euros. Not quite as up market as the main marina restaurant and bar. Below is a close up of Grand Slam with it's gleaming starboard side (Oh sorry, we can't quite see that side can we).

In the evening we went up to town to watch one of the out door concerts. They have been on every night leading up to the big fiesta that is on next Saturday (15th). There is a big stage set up in front of one of the squares flanked by numerous small bars. We have frequented O Tapeo quite few times though (seen below) and now we don't even have to say what we want. On Thursday last week we stopped here to watch the concert which was very good. It was an Argentinean version of Dexy's midnight runners (who? I hear most of you say - "Come on Eileen"). 6 of them with flash hats and a few saxs - that's meant to be the plural of saxophones! One snag is the concerts don't start until 11pm so on Sunday we gave up before they started and retired to the boat to sleep.

The trees almost look plastic. Haven't a clue what they are. Anyone know?

Monday brought the expected wind and rain, not unlike a typical Scottish summers day except it was almost in the twenties. We went off to Santiago on the train - only 5 Euros return - took 50 mins on the slow stopping train with 10 minutes walk either end. Had a great meal there and a good look around dodging all the tourists in the mist and gloom with their umbrellas.

Back on the boat I spent a wonderful hour changing out the joker valve in the Jabsco toilet - a very easy job if the unit wasn't screwed down so close to the wall that it was nigh impossible to get a screwdriver near. Finally managed it with a flexible drive coupling long enough to get down to the two inner screws. One of those jobs where you need 3 hands - but that means two people and there was hardly room for one! Tomorrow is market day in town so that's the target for the morning if we can get up in time. For Wednesday it's time we headed south into the next Ria to have a week there. The forecast is saying it should be sunny again by then.

Saturday 9th August, Caraminal

We had done two days in the marina in Vilagarcia (playing tourists) so it was time to do a bit of sailing -with the added incentive that there were 100+ boats heading this way for Friday night. The dinghy was returned to us on Thursday night looking "as new" but with two yellow "go faster stripes" hiding the repairs. There was however a strong recommendation not to use it for 48 hours to let the adhesive cure properly.

We left the marina Friday morning and headed back in the general direction of Caraminal (where we had anchored the previous weekend). It was another leisurely cruise in great weather so topping up the sun tan was the primary activity. We decided to go into the marina in Caraminal rather than be stuck on the boat all evening. As we approached the marina, I did the usual call on channel 9. I have now worked out the system! They either do not respond - as they can't speak English, or they come out with something totally un-intelligible. Either way you haven't a clue where they want you to go but at least they know you are there and then they come out waving hands to direct you - and take your ropes. Now don't get me wrong. I am not criticising these guys - just the opposite. Imagine a Spanish boat coming into Port Edgar.

Anyway, we were shown to a rather substantial berth on millionaire's row - in between 40-50ft motor cruisers. The marina itself is described in the pilot book as having good pontoons but there wasn't a lot more. It cost 24 Euros for the night (we are 12m). The showers / toilets left a lot to be desired. There was a cafe bar where we had a cold one while waiting for the office formalities (very quick - shortest form to fill in yet - and they had brought that to the boat).

In the evening we went into town for a meal and found a nice bar in one of the squares away from the busy cafe area behind the park area. For the first time in weeks we found a waiter who spoke reasonable English - although once we got chatting we found he was from Romania!

Saturday morning we stocked up on food in the local "Gadis" - Spain's equivalent to Tesco's and for the second Saturday on the trot got mobbed by old ladies. Rule 2 - don't go to the supermarket on Saturday. Midweek - fine. Saturday - manic! We left the marina around twelve-ish and headed towards the Isla de Arosa - about 3 miles away. Here we saw the massed ranks of boats that had evicted us from Vilagarcia.

 

Honestly this picture doesn't do it justice but there were around 50 boats motor sailing down the Ria. I got it wrong when I said in a previous post it was the equivalent of West Highland Week although maybe I was right and the winner is the one who gets in last burning the most fuel. Turns out it is a cruising thing where they all sail together from one marina to another over 4 days. They were all off to Sangenjo in the next Ria down.

Anyway, we headed over to a nice anchorage at Punta Caballo for lunch on the north west tip of Isla de Arosa. First job was to thread our way through the mussel floats or "viveros" as the locals call them.

These are laid out all over the place and look quite daunting. However they are laid out to a plan and it is easy to sail between them providing it is not dark. The photo above shows us motoring into the anchorage between the rows on what was yet another very pleasant day. The photo below shows the anchorage once we had got in. A really pleasant place although exposed to the north which stops you using it as an overnight anchorage as most nights that is where the wind is coming from.

We then headed back towards Vilagarcia, stopping to do a bit of fishing. Within 15 minutes we had caught a couple of mackerel for tea and something that looked a cross between Thomas the tank engine and a manta ray. It was about 10 pounds in weight, but not knowing how to go about preparing a railway engine cross (or is that a cross railway engine), it went back in.

We had decided to go back to the marina in Vilagarcia so we could go and have a look around Santiago again and also possibly Pontevedra - there a good rail links from here. Also despite the great weather this weekend (and most of last week), the forecast is cloud and rain on Monday and Tuesday so a good day to play tourists again. We got into the marina around 5 ish and parked up on a hammerhead in time for a siesta ahead of a stroll into town for the evening.

Thursday 7th August, Vilagarcia

We got up early today. Just before 10 o'clock. It's a hard life being retired. Last night had been quite a late one. We had gone into town for a meal in one of the street cafe/restaurants and a great meal it was too. Seafood paella plus plenty to drink for less than 30 Euros. During the meal we had a torrential downpour - that was obviously the cold front going through then. One snag was they had run out of cold Estrella so I had to do with San Miguel instead. That's the Spanish equivalent of Tennants! Bad mistake!

This morning we went into town to have a look around the meat and fish market plus a few of the historic buildings that were on the tourist guide. Quite a contrast between the streets with dozens of cafes and the sedate pace of life in other areas.

(the mid-day bustle in the quiet part of town)

For lunch we decided to try the "menu del dia" at the restaurant at the marina. This looked a bit up market from the rest of what we had seen and quite expensive prices. As for most places we've found here, there was a lack of written menus which then presents something of a challenge. We are improving though fast. For the last 3 days we have got exactly what we ordered for our meals. Contrast that to a week ago when I asked for the menu and got shown to the gents. Anyway...where was I .... oh yes, the menu of the day. The board outside said 3 courses, wine (or beer), coffee and bread for 9.90 Euro each...and that's exactly what we got - except it was a bottle of wine and a bottle of beer. For the two of us the bill came to less than 20 Euros. Excellent food as well.

(The marina restaurant on the top floor)

(and the view from the restaurant - Grand Slam is at the back)

I'm expecting the dinghy back around 8.00pm this evening but we can't use it for a few days. We'll be off for a sail tomorrow to make room for the racing boats but we will wait to see which way the wind is blowing before making a decision on where to go. We will come back to this marina after the weekend as we have decided another day looking around Santiago would be good and there is a good train service from here to there. We also have another 379 restaurants to try.

Wednesday 6th August, Vilagarcia

That's us been here 24 hours in the Vilagarcia marina after arriving yesterday afternoon and it certainly looks a nice place. The marina is again one of those friendly, welcoming places that I never thought existed.

We got in yesterday, the marina guy came out in his boat and directed us to the visitors berth, helped with the ropes, spoke reasonable English so we knew what we needed to do etc. After the usual tidy up, cold beer etc we went up to the office to register. Silvia behind the desk was very welcoming, speaking good enough English to have a conversation and find out what the Craic was. Seems like it is the equivalent of West Highland Week with 200 boats descending here on Friday - good to know in advance. Our plan was to try and get the dinghy fixed as it has developed a leak again. I tentatively asked Sylvia if she knew who could help. "Let me sort it for you!". Two phone calls later "someone will be over in an hour to look at it, why don't you go upstairs to the bar and have a relax, I'll call you and here - have a coupon for two free drinks!" An hour later, Sylvia appears and introduces me to Jeronimo (for the dinghy repair and Tito - a good English speaker who appears to run the chandlery). Talk about service. Must happen at Port Edgar every day.

Anyway Jeronimo's now off with the dinghy to put a permanent patch on where the temporary patch was (it's going to be expensive!). The adhesive just was not holding in the daytime heat. Hopefully we will get it back Friday although it will be another 2 days then before we can use it. We may head back over to the marina in Camarinal to avoid Friday's mayhem.

Many marinas here seem to have a bar and restaurant on the top floor of the office building. This one was no exception. Great place to sit outside in the evening sun and sip a cold beer. This one seemed to have a more expensive restaurant than Portosin so we elected instead to try the sailing club building on the breakwater. This was a bit more downmarket (the equivalent to Jeanette's in PEYC - well not quite but the nearest analogy I could find). Sitting outside, looking over the sea out to the west, watching the sun go down, drinking cold Estrella and Rioja, eating fried Calamari - heaven.

Overall then a great Marina and probably could match Kilmore Quay if only we could understand the language. Difficult to have find great Craic when you can't understand a word of what people are saying to you.

Today, Wednesday, we got up to wall to wall .....cloud! Yes, cloud. A cold front came over and it all went grey. That then was a good opportunity to do the tourist bit around town and a walk up the seafront to Carrill - a mile or so up the beach. Vilagarcia is quite a big place, lots of shops and seems to be geared to local tourists. By mid afternoon the sun was again out and the temperature is at least 15�C warmer than Edinburgh. Pam's now gone a deeper shade of brown. Whilst I did mention a beach, it doesn't look the nicest so a swim is out of the question.

Tomorrow will be a bit more of tourist bit and then off on Friday to seek out new ...... places to have a cold Estrella.

Sunday 3rd August, Caraminal

Sunday (as for Saturday) turned out to be great weather again with wall to wall blue sky and 25 deg plus temperatures. We sailed from the Ria de Muros to the Ria de Arosa by the outside route - missing all of the rocks that run all the way down the coast line. It started with less than 10 knots of wind but soon turned into 15- 20 knots downwind. There was also a couple of metres of swell as we were out into the unprotected Atlantic.

25 miles of the trip was outside the Rias but as soon as we turned into Arosa the wind died to about 4-5 knots for our drift up the Ria.

Time for a bit of fishing then. We trawled a line with lures initially at 2knts of boat speed but as we trimmed the sails properly we got almost two more knots. After lunch we pulled the line in and found our first fish, a six inch long sardine. That went back in as Pam had already bought

chicken for tea!

 

By four-ish we had made our way almost to the top of the Ria and the town of Caraminal - which had been recommended on the YBW forum.

We anchored in the bay just outside the marina in around 5 metres of water. Before dinner, we took the dinghy ashore to have a look round. Looks a nice little town with convenient rubbish disposal and shops. I couldn't get an internet connection that wasn’t security protected so this blog is a few days late. We also found a trendy bar on a first floor balcony overlooking the anchorage and beach.

(this is the view from the balcony - we are the boat on the right)

 

We stayed in the anchorage for a couple of nights and had a good look around the town on Monday. Quaint place with lots of old narrow streets and a museum that said it would open at 4pm but didn't. There is also a marina in the town which seemed very busy but little in the way of facilities - and no wifi.

 

 

You can just about make out Grand Slam Too in the foreground - just before we discovered an almost terminal problem (more of that later - nothing like keeping up the suspense is it?).

 

Both nights we spent here turned out to be very windy. During the day the wind went from non-existent to around 8-10 knots - usually with a westerly component. By 9pm though it swung to the east and increased to 15-20knts. By midnight it decreased again. This anchorage was protected from south to north through the west so it was an exciting end to each evening. No problems with holding though - everywhere seems to be mud/sand with excellent holding.

 

We left Caraminal on Tuesday morning - after another leisurely start - and cruised along at around 3.5knts in not much more wind. The sky was blue, the temperature 25+ (hope this isn't too upsetting for all the poor people who have to go to work). When the wind died to zero - out with the fishing rod again.

 

 

This time I managed a reasonable size mackerel. Can you imagine doing this on the Forth? I can't. Interesting to see we are the only boat with crew wearing life jackets?

 

After 3 days anchoring we were heading for the marina in Vilagarcia - the huge distance of 5 miles away. We noticed on Monday that the dinghy had re-developed it's anti-inflation tendency - ie it was leaking again. I had patched it in Ireland after it had got a few pin hole leaks hitting some rocks. The patch kit did say it was a temporary repair however it had worked fine during our stay in the Guinness Isle. Being a chemist, and even one who had developed adhesives (that's glue to the most of us) I should have know that the single pack adhesive was not going to stand up to the heat of Spain. A professional repair was now needed using a twin pack adhesive and proper patches. So Marina Vilagarcia it was then. The five hour mile sail only took 3 hours - what with all the fishing and sunbathing. What an ordeal!

 

We arrived the marina around 4-ish and parked up on the visitors pontoon. Will this marina challenge Kilmore Quay for the best marina in the world competition? You will have to wait until tomorrow!

Saturday 2nd August, Ensenada de San Francisco

We have finally found an internet connection so now I can post a summary of the last few days.

 

We arrived back into Portosin late on Thursday evening just in time to get a meal up the club and then a long lie in on Friday. The plan was to sort various things out on the boat on Friday and go to the Supermarket ready to set off on Saturday. This weekend was fiesta weekend in Portosin so Friday evening was quite noisy with fireworks and music so a good chance to soak up the atmosphere in one of the street cafes - which we duly did ('till quite late!).

 

Saturday was late starting. When we finally got up, it was a last visit to the supermarket and then once enough water had filled up the marina, we eased the boat out between umpteen ropes from the various boats tied up and

moored near us. We were aiming to go and anchor in Muros, a town just 5 miles away the other side of the Ria.

 

It was wall to wall blue sky and temperatures to match. We took the long way round route to have a look at some other beaches but were not too impressed with the anchorages in Muros. The one by the harbour was described as dirty mud and rubbish (hence tripping line) and the other one by the beach was now occupied by mussel rafts. Instead then we headed south round the corner to the beach of San Francisco – a large sandy beach, exposed to the south but as the wind was forecast northerly we were happy to drop anchor for the night.

 

(now where is this anchor thingy?)

 

We noticed a couple of other boats – just out for the day – upping anchor and pulling up huge quantities of weed. The pilot book had said nothing about weed and as we were holding well, thought nothing more of it.

 

 

We had anchored in around 20knts of wind but by sunset the wind died to nothing but we were rolling a lot in the swell from outside the Ria. Still it was a very pleasant stop.

 

We departed early on Sunday morning to make the 35 mile sail down to the next Ria down (Ria Arosa) before the strong afternoon sea breeze filled in. At 8.30am then we weighed anchor and pulled up a forest of kelp and other

assorted green stuff. Interesting.

Monday 27th July, Dunblane ???

Serious withdrawal symptoms are setting in from lack of Estrella. Their share price has plummeted. Rob's hardly eaten anything since he got back last week. We are of course back home in Scotland for a week with the boat safely(??) tied up in Portosin marina. We fly back on Thursday. Trying some Singha tonight.

At least the weather has been good up here. It's actually been over 20 C for the few days we've been here - a record for this year. We went down Port Edgar on Sunday and went out for a very pleasant couple of hours sail on Erin in tea shirts - in Scotland!!! Erin is off today round the west coast via the canal to do West Coast Week. Best of luck guys.

To cope with the lack of Estrella we have been to the Tapit Hen in Dunblane a few times (ie a lot of times). Pam fancied a snack ie a few plates of Tapas. Some hope. Quavers or pork scratchings. I have never seen the attraction of anyone eating a snack with hairs on it. Anyone recognise the book I have been reading yet? That was another clue.

As a recap then on the trip, we have done around 1400 miles and spent 8 weeks on the boat. Looks like we have another 600 miles to go and around 7 weeks. The best pub of the trip was Kehoes in Kilmore Quay - but the Tapit Hen in Dunblane is still winning. The best marina has to go to Kilmore Quay for the all round great time we had there. Must try and get back sometime. Runner up is Portosin - and we still have a few days when we get back there. Best places to visit apart from Kilmore Quay were Rathlin Island which was very nice and Arklow (thanks Dave). The friends we met in Kilmore Quay though were fantastic and hopefully we will meet up with them again.

Very little has broken on the boat. Two seasons of racing has ensured all the weak bits have failed already!! We needed a new set of taps for the galley in Crosshaven when the original mixer tap packed in. The dinghy needed patching when holed in Islay (which along with Craighouse was probably the worst place on the trip). Oh and a bottle opener broke in Portosin - good job we had a spare. Best bit of new kit on the boat has been the AIS - very useful for crossing the shipping lanes in Biscay given the way the big tankers and cruise boats bear down on you at 18 knts+. Best bit of advice gained was from John and Sue on Ellan Vanin who suggested adding a 3rd jack stay from the port stern round the bottom of the mast and to the starboard stern so allowing the person at the mast to clip on easily. Oh and the wifi dish antenna has done a storming job since Dun Leary (easy spelling) when we have hardly been without a good connection.

So we have now stocked up on more warm weather clothing and other essential items for our trip back on Thursday. Look out for more postings from Friday onwards.