We are now "tucked up" in a small "marina" in Lipari (the main town on the island of the same name). Tucked up is a phrase that I use lightly as there is nothing secure here when the wind gets up! More of that later.
Firstly a big thankyou to Trevor and Caroline on Balchis for spotting a Woolly Mammoth for me. It's on their blog sight (which I can't link to as I am typing this off line!!!). It looks a bit stuffed to me but at least its a start!
Sunday night in the anchorage on the north west side of Vulcano became more interesting as the evening went on. We walked across the island early evening and got back to find 25+ boats squeezing in. So much for my idea that everyone would go back home Sunday night - it turned out it was a local "bank holiday" on the Monday! Most boats were putting down their anchors a reasonable distance away from others but the odd "plonker" was aiming for any hole that appeared (as the wind had died to nothing and boats were facing all directions). One of the worst offenders then spent most of the night pulling in his anchor chain to stop him hitting other boats as the wind got up and proceeded to swing to all points of the compass and then round again. This anchorage is really one of the only ones protected from an eastery wind in all of the islands so not surprising everyone came here. Although the night was comfortable, having other boats only one boat length away with winds of 20 knts was not very relaxing.
One useful bit of info is that there is a diving school in this bay - contact Tony on +39 347 7283341 (mobile) - he speaks reasonable english.
On Monday morning we up anchored and left in a rather windy force 6 and headed for Lipari, the main town on the central island of the same name. Here the choice is some pontoons near the town centre or the little marina to the north east of the bay at Port Pignataro. We headed for the marina as the wind was Easterly force 6 gusting to 7 and creating a lot of swell. The snag was that it was forecast to go west by mid afternoon at force 7 which ruled out any anchorages on the west sides of the islands. We managed to get a berth right on the outside of the main pontoon which we thought would be fine. The wind however kept up until 6pm and the swell was causing havoc. They closed the outer pontoon for 3 hours as the boats were being buffetted round and we almost had our mast crash against the mast of the boat next door. The wind switched to westerly around 6pm and after that the swell from the east calmed down. Most of the boats we had seen the 4 nights previously (and most likely everyone else) were here all juggling for space to berth. Despite the west wind (20knts of it) it was a very uncomfortable night with lots of noise and creaking pontoons.
Tuesday morning - as we decided to stay put, we were offered a berth further in which we immediately took. Its now a lot quieter despite the continuing 20-25knt of wind in the marina. A German boat just arrived next to us said they had sailed from the mainland in 6's and 7's - a beat all the way!
The doom and gloom book says Pignataro is the most sheltered place on the islands. That doesnt mean it is sheltered!!! In strong easterlies the outer pontoons are dangerous and they are very uncomfortable in strong westerlies. Given that the wind only seems to come from those directions - the hills don't allow it to come other ways, watch out if you come here when it's windy. I think we are fortunate to have experienced the islands for 4 days with no wind but we are paying for it now...... and when it is windy - everyone will come here!
Anyhow, today once we had moved pontoons, we headed into town to see the museum. We waited a good half hour for a bus that never appeared so hailed a taxi. He was full but came back 10 mins later. Turns out he spoke reasonable English and offered us a tour of the island for 40 Euros. Given that was only 30 Euro more than the trip to town, we accepted and got a guided tour for 90mins stopping to see all the sights. The driver, runs a garage, grows wine, rents houses to tourists and is the Volvo Penta authorised mechanic on the island. He seems to know everyone including where to get everything mended. If you are following us then give him a call if you get problems - Fonti Bartolomeo (mobile +39 3385955230).
We then stopped for a bite to eat and dring and then walked up to the museum which was closed for the afternoon - it still must be a holiday to the dismay of the 50 odd people walking round trying to get access. We will try again tomorrow morning. A taxi back from town with a load of shopping from the local (large) supermarket cost 10 Euros.
The plan is to stop tonight here and then go into town to the museum tomorrow. If the wind subsides then we may move north a couple of miles to anchor and then go over to the island of Salina for Thursday/Friday nights. There is some more strong wind forecast for Sunday and we need to decide whether to be in the Aeolians for it (with no certainty of good shelter) or sail back to the mainland.
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